Beiträge von amaurythewarrior

So I finished building (I'd like it if someone could confirm I wired the output trafo correctly though)
And I measured my voltages without tubes, most are good,
but in a few places i only get 310v instead of 360:

pin 1 and 6 of V1
and pin 2 of v2.

Thanks in advance to whoever can help a bit. Also lower voltages shouldn't be dangerous for the tubes? Can I put the tubes in and see if it works?

I'm making good progress, PSU is complete with correct voltages, but it's almost time to wire the output transformer
I know it has been discussed a lot but my question is for 16 ohm output:

Should I bridge 4 ohm taps (3 and 16) and 8 ohms (4-15) ?
So my output is just all the green wires together?

Also can you confirm what another user said about the "mod" pdf:
The picture isn't correct (7and 12 for plate voltage) but the text is (7 and 13)?

Thanks in advance

edit: I'd like to add a question. Shielded wires are shown to be connected to ground. It's the shielding only that should be connected to ground? How do you do that?

Thank you for your help, I think that answers all my questions for the moment.
I can finish drilling the chassis, mount and test the TR, wire the heaters.

I'll be back when all of this is done, I suppose!

I see, thank you both for your replies.
I have finished the main board, and PSU and drilled most holes in the case, but as I'm reading through the rest of the manual again and again, some things are not very clear

• The plastic roller for R27 at the star ground point. I'm a bit confused by the word "roller" first, this is a small plastic cylinder, but mostly by the fact I can't really see it on the pictures. Aren't there some higher resolution pictures somewhere?
• "Then connect both electrolytic caps (-) separately with the star ground point, please use one lug there for the two green wires." Those from the PSU board, right? I'm a bit unsure because there's a ground symbol next to R9/- on C8
• Everything's that AC: heater, primary, secondary windings, as long as I'm connecting the correct pair of lugs, it doesn't matter which is which?
  What about heater wires after they go through the PSU board, and from one tube to the next?

Thanks in advance, maybe it seems like a lot but I think most of the questions can be answered in one word, I just wanted to be thorough.

Hello!
So, I've started building, everything is going OK so far, well not great but OK.
However I noticed I've received 500 pF instead of 470pF caps for C4 and 11, should I worry about this?
Thanks!

You're right, I think I stupidly took a battery from my bass with active pickups, assuming it had enough "juice" left. Turns out when I measure the battery it gives 4v...
So I'll try a new battery tomorrow. If that was the only problem I'll have to apologize for wasting your time, although that did push me to research and learn stuff.

But I suspect there's more than the battery thing...

Here are my readings (taken to the best of my ability, analog multimeter)
IC1
1:2
2:2
3:0+
4:0
5:0.5
6:1
7:1.25
8:4

IC2:
1:2
2:2
3:0+
4:0
5:0+
6:2
7:2
8:4

IC3:
1:2
2:2
3:1.5
4:0
5:0+
6:2
7:2
8:4

T1
E:2.5
C:0
B:4

T2
E:2.5
C:0
B:0

T3
E:3
C:0.5
B:4

C20: 1.5
c19: 2 (a bit less)

Am I doing something wrong or is there a reason I never read +9 on the transistors and ICs?

Here are the pictures
https://imgur.com/a/KS2z6ef

Hello,
Thank you again for your help,
I've checked the soldering and values for everything that was accessible without desoldering the pots (need to buy desoldering braid)

I'll attach a gut shot later, but just to be sure about the voltages:
all ICs pins, and both legs for caps?
Thank you.

I've also read about using an "audio probe" to determine where the problem is, does this seem like a good idea here?

whoops, meant to attach this link

FYI, this is what the pedal sounds like at the moment, without IC2, so without the high pitched sound...

Ok, thank you, I'll try that first

I used the NE5532 because I had them available.
I don't think the input is close to the output wire, input and output wires are both short and on their respective sides.

I can see if I have any available cap for c20, but why would I need a higher value?

UPDATE: I had a few NE5532 to try, I read they were a suitable equivalent,
In one configuration I could get treble and low pots to function apparently in a normal way, volume and distortion not so much, volume seemed to work but the dist pot seemed to adjust the distortion volume and it was always distorted in a very nasty way

I tried with only NE5532 (so three of them, to replaced both T072 and rc4558 - I now had the weird hi pitched sound on the low pot...

Hello, Thank you for your reply.
You're right, after removing IC2 the high pitched sound stops.
I can't really read the schematics or at least understand them, but IC2 was directly acting on the highs?

So I suppose I'll have to replace IC2 (at least this one)
Is there still a point in resoldering C20?

EDIT: If I have to order replacement parts, should I get all the ICs just in case? Transistors as well?

UPDATE: the volume pot affects the volume of the guitar, but not the high pitched noise,
distortion pot affects the volume of the noise (and distortion itself)
high pot affects pitch and volume of the noise, which seems to be minimal around the center position (?)
does that help get an idea?
Thanks in advance.

OK so turns out i could do a primitive wiring job with the battery... BUT! let's just say there is a problem somewhere:

the treble pot somehow controls the pitch of the sound
volume works fine it seems, dist and low as well

EDIT:
I've checked the pots they are all where they should be

ah, but I read this about how with a battery you need a stereo jack for the proper wiring. and I was a bit confused about that. I understand the point is not to drain the battery constantly...

thank you for you reply.
Yes, indeed, I discussed it on another forum and I've been told the same thing. it did not occur to me the whammy had AC power, I sort of assumed all pedals used a "standard" PSU.

First step will be getting a PSU, and a replacement PSU for the whammy as well, so I'm not extremely happy about that.

I was hoping I could try with a battery, but I don't have any stereo jack connector

Hello,
I finished building a HMTwo, I thought everything was going well.
Tried plugging the pedal without IC and transistors first, nothing unusual I'd, but it did smell "hot"
then with everything in, bypass was working, but with the effect on i'd only get the "buzz" from the ac, controls seemed to be working however, LED would light up
after a few more attempts (checking wiring and soldering) the AC adapter died on me.

That's about where I am now. Any idea what could be wrong? Is it likely more parts have been damaged?
Thanks in advance.