Plate blue wire from OT

  • Hi Davide,


    O.k,at first,these are the Output Jacks,connected to Output Transformer,not the Input Jacks.


    Those Types are the same as you use in your 18W Build.


    To make it clearer,what those 4 Contacts on it are for,tak a look at the Top Side of the Jacks,you will see,there are 2 Permanent Contacts, and 2 Switchabel Contacts,them are "Opener",if you put in a Jack Plug,the 2 Contacts are opened.


    So you have to link all 4 Contacts from the Ground Side,but to use only the 2 permanent Lugs where is the Tip connected.


    Which of them are the permanent contacts,you could seen for example on the Top side from Jacks,if you put in a plug,the contact lift´s,and only permanent Lugs are connected.You could check it too,with Multimeter and the "Beep2 Function.


    Those Jacks are also possible with 2 more Lugs, those are Stereo Jacks with Switch Contacts ;)


    regards,

    Micha

    " Du willst keine sarkastischen Antworten ? :huh: ,dann stell keine blöden Fragen ! :D "

  • Thanks


    The contact lift when I put the jack in and is the one with the Green line (Ground Bus) connecting 4 lugs.


    I connect signal ground to there on the ground of the 4 lugs and it goes to star ground


    I am not sure where to put the 8Ohms and 16 Ohms is like that correct?


    There is R32 is 680 R value but where does it go?




    On the 18 Watts is different but I could do the same here remove one Socket and add triple rotary switch and make it 4Ohms 8Ohms or 16Ohms


    Just like that:


  • I see, i should it build for you :D ;( ;)


    1. i didn´t see the Top Side of the jacks from here,so i couldnt say you if you use the correct permanent lugs for 8,16 Ohm taps,if them the permanent Lugs,its right.


    R32 one Side is connected with Ground,all 4 Ground Lugs of jacks and Pin 2 of OT. Other Side of R32 is connected to the 8 Ohm Jack Tip and Pin 5 OT.


    So just place it on the 8 Ohm Jack between Tip and GND and then connect all links shown in Shematic and layout

    " Du willst keine sarkastischen Antworten ? :huh: ,dann stell keine blöden Fragen ! :D "

  • Got it? ?(


    If still unsure what is switch contact,you could link the two lugs of both jacks, 1x 8 Ohm the 2 Tip Contacts, 1x 16 Ohm the 2 Tip Contacts!


    But something you had to do more for your basic knowledge,that are the really Basics,you don´t Understand ?(

    " Du willst keine sarkastischen Antworten ? :huh: ,dann stell keine blöden Fragen ! :D "

  • Actually simple switches like these are no case for schematics, graphics or even questions in the forum. I mean... you can do it. Fine for me, I won't answer it :D

    Just want to recommend to take a multimeter and understand the switching properties of the parts hands-on.

    The main questions is that the switch provided do not match the one used which is a different model and type, again principle might be the same, but I was wondering how to connect those 4 lugs . I know another method using the rotary triple switch for Ohms selections and can be used by removing one speaker switch.


    however if you don't want to answer don't do it, no needs to say it here.


    I just asked to Micha and he gently he replied no one is obligated to help :) I know that, I am not taking for granted that Micha or anyone else needs to help, thanks

  • Got it? ?(


    If still unsure what is switch contact,you could link the two lugs of both jacks, 1x 8 Ohm the 2 Tip Contacts, 1x 16 Ohm the 2 Tip Contacts!


    But something you had to do more for your basic knowledge,that are the really Basics,you don´t Understand ?(

    I am reading but applying reading theory and manual practice there is a big difference. I think I understood before I finish and soldering I'll show you I think I got it right

  • You are running exactly in the problem that my suggestion would prevent: switches, switched sockets, ... can be complicated and documenting that can be hard or can contain mistakes. Same for decyphering those documentations and grasping what they try to show... in every step you add to the process, errors may occur. 1) you figure out what you got 2) you write it down 3) micha tries to understand what you wrote 4) micha tries to put an answer into words (or graphics) 5) you try to understand what micha wrote 6) you build it.... each step introduces potential bugs.


    Why not: measure the device you have, look at the schematic what kind of switching it expects to work as expected and implement it?

  • Confusion is only: You get switchable jackets,but you don´t have Nothing to switch there!


    Just find out where is ground and where is Tip permanent connectet on jack Lugs,and this lugs are this ones you had to use,this ones are the same ones are provided in Manual,think away the 2 switchable lugs on each jack,than you got it,than you only have two lugs on each jack!

    " Du willst keine sarkastischen Antworten ? :huh: ,dann stell keine blöden Fragen ! :D "

  • Confusion is only: You get switchable jackets,but you don´t have Nothing to switch there!


    Just find out where is ground and where is Tip permanent connectet on jack Lugs,and this lugs are this ones you had to use,this ones are the same ones are provided in Manual,think away the 2 switchable lugs on each jack,than you got it,than you only have two lugs on each jack!

    Got it

  • You are running exactly in the problem that my suggestion would prevent: switches, switched sockets, ... can be complicated and documenting that can be hard or can contain mistakes. Same for decyphering those documentations and grasping what they try to show... in every step you add to the process, errors may occur. 1) you figure out what you got 2) you write it down 3) micha tries to understand what you wrote 4) micha tries to put an answer into words (or graphics) 5) you try to understand what micha wrote 6) you build it.... each step introduces potential bugs.


    Why not: measure the device you have, look at the schematic what kind of switching it expects to work as expected and implement it?

    There is one why I know and that is the way I did it on the 18 Watts, using rotary selector switch, attach each OT wire 16 Ohm 8 Ohm and even the 4 Ohm, into the corresponding lugs on the rotary switch then from there goes into the input jack on this kit if I do that I can only use one


    It is written also on the manual this possibility


    From Manual:

    Furthermore, if you replace one speaker plug socket with a triple switch and

    wire it accordingly, you can switch between 4/8/16 Ohm for maximum flexibility.


    This is clear now :)

  • Hi Davide,


    because you don' t need the switching function for the output jacks, the wiring is pretty easy as shown below. If you want to use a rotary switch for 4/8/16 ohms output, take care that the switch is adequate for the current (couple of Ampere) going through it...


  • Hi Davide,


    because you don' t need the switching function for the output jacks, the wiring is pretty easy as shown below. If you want to use a rotary switch for 4/8/16 ohms output, take care that the switch is adequate for the current (couple of Ampere) going through it...


    Thank you soooo much, after Micha explanation I already did it the way you represented, which is absolutely clear, thanks again I really appreciate it :)


    I had a rotary switch on the 18 watts and knew it how to do it that way, thing is, manual practice is needed, but combined with the knowledge it is the first time I am using both, like Micha said I have been building out of pictures and that didn't help. Now is different thanks a lot

  • If you follow the instructions, the cable from J1 to V1 is shielded (shield only connected at J1) ;)

    I know that, the cable (shielded is already connected to V1 center lug but a shielded cable is made by 2 parts signal and shielding wire, according to your schematic the signal (inner wire) is connected to first lug and the shielding part of the wire goes to ground ;) that is what I meant

  • Hendrixianer and MAD

    As you have noticed I am studying and researching each part that slowly slowly I am building.

    I am not asking just for having the solution :) but to understand and you have been helpful

    What is a screen?

    A screen is commonly made from aluminum or copper and is electrically conductive. The screen is often directly placed over the insulated cores or pairs inside the cable. The purpose of a screen is to reduce signal trying to escape from the cable while also preventing external electrical noise and interference from affecting the signal the cable is carrying.


    So if I understand correctly in this case shielded wire is going from center lug V1 to Input Jack and the reason is to reduce electrical noise or maybe interference



Participate now!

Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!